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Recipe of the Month
Crispy Roast Chicken
(Stuffed under the skin with Provençal Herb Purée)
This succulent chicken is roasted with a Provençal Pistou (the Provençal version of Pesto) stuffed between the skin and the flesh. This method creates a moist and flavorful bird that is equally delicious served hot, or taken on a picnic to be carved and eaten al fresco at room temperature. If you have a really fresh chicken, it's not difficult to loosen the skin and slide the stuffing underneath, and the results are as impressive as they are delicious.
makes 6 generous servings
1 5-pound roasting chicken, with no tears in its skin (see Teacher's Tip)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Provençal Pistou:
8 garlic cloves, peeled
4 cups tightly packed fresh Provençal herbs, thoroughly washed and dried (1 cup should be flat-leaf Parsley, the remainder, a mix of thyme, marjoram, lavender leaves, rosemary, savory)
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- Spatchcock the chicken. (See detailed instructions for this step in the Teacher's Tip section of this page.)
- Starting at the neck, carefully slide first your fingertips, then your hand under the skin and loosen the filaments that hold the skin to the flesh. Leave the skin attached at the top of the breast bone. Work slowly and carefully so you won't tear the skin. You will soon find that you've loosened the skin all the way below the knee on each side. Cut the wing tips at the second joint.
- Sprinkle a little olive oil on the chicken and rub it all over. Then rub the chicken on the skin side and the bone side -- but not under the skin -- with a mixture of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Let the chicken marinate while you prepare the pistou.
- Make the pistou: With the motor running in your food processor fitted with the metal blade, drop the garlic cloves through the feed tube, and process until chopped very fine. Scrape down the garlic, add the herb mixture and chop fine. Leaving the motor running, add the olive oil in a slow, steady stream through the hole in the lid.
- Shut off the motor: add a big pinch of salt and a liberal grinding of pepper. Pulse three or four times to mix well. Scrape into a glass jar and cover until ready to use. You can prepare the pistou up to this point a day or two ahead.
- Heat the oven to 450 degrees F. The pistou will slide under the skin most easily if it is removed from the fridge just one half hour before stuffing. Using your (scrupulously clean) hands, take the pistou by handfuls and slide it under the skin, all the way down around the knees. Use half the mixture for each side of the chicken. When you have it all underneath the skin, wash your hands, then mold the pistou (from the outside) so that it assumes the shape of the chicken. With a small, sharply pointed knife, pierce the web of skin and thin flesh between the inside of the thigh and the tip of the breast, making a slit just large enough to insert the drumstick tip. Place the chicken on a rack in a shallow roasting pan just large enough to hold the spread-out bird. Sprinkle the chicken with more salt and pepper, if you like.
- As soon as the chicken is in the oven, reduce temperature to 375 degrees F. Cover it loosely with a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil (shiny side in). Roast for one hour and ten minutes. After the chicken has baked for half an hour, begin basting it by pouring 3/4 cup cold water over the chicken. Baste with the accumulated juices every 15 minutes thereafter. After the hour and ten minutes, remove the foil and raise the temperature to 450 degrees F. and roast for an additional twenty minutes to ensure the skin is brown and crispy.
- Remove the chicken from the oven and allow it to rest for at least 15 minutes before carving it. Serve on a large platter surrounded by a freshly cooked green vegetable, such as broccoli, and cherry tomatoes (if they're in season) -- for a beautiful presentation.
Teacher's Tip: A supermarket chicken won't work for this recipe, because its skin is too fragile -- and may already have been torn in handling before you buy it. Try instead to get your chicken from a store or some other place that sells free-range chickens.
Wine Tip: The wine I prefer to accompany this succulent roast chicken is a red Bandol from the Provençal coast. Domaine Tempier makes the very best of these. Mas du Gourgonnier is a local Provençal wine from the Les Baux region that would also be delicious.
Cookin' Jazz to Cook To
If you like Diana, you will love this compilation of her "greatest hits," as well as the DVD. Both include previously recorded but unreleased cuts that make you wonder "What else of hers do they have under their hat over there at Verve?"
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Cookbook Review
Fish Without a Doubt
By Rick Moonen and Roy Finamore
Houghton Mifflin, 2008 -- $35.00
Anyone who’s ever eaten fish prepared by Rick Moonen has been seduced. This chef knows how to cook fish like few others. He has cooked fish in top kitchens in both New York and Las Vegas for many years. But, for this book, Rick put aside his toque and assumed the role of home cook in a New York apartment kitchen. That means these recipes are created with the home cook in mind. They are not watered down restaurant recipes. The ingredients are accessible as your grocery store and the local fish market.
Rick’s affiliation with fish extends far beyond its preparation. For years he has been at the forefront of the sustainable movement, a leader in the efforts to save swordfish, cod and Chilean sea bass from extinction. (Like me, he is a charter member of Seafood Choices Alliance.)
Rick and I have been friendly colleagues for many years. As one who considers herself fairly expert in cooking fish and seafood, Rick continually amazes me with his creativity. Cooking my way through this book has definitely increased my own knowledge of fish cookery and expanded my horizons.
For the novice fish cook, Rick begins with a picture section where he shows, step-by-step how to accomplish basic techniques of preparing fish and shellfish for cooking and serving. Next comes a section on how to shop for fish and to store it. A chapter describing the fish he uses in his recipes comes next.
Rick spends a good deal of time explaining the techniques and equipment he uses. Rather than one big chapter on the subject, he intersperses his wisdom throughout the book at appropriate places. Here is an excerpt in which he convinced me to purchase a cast iron griddle!
“ABOUT BROILING FISH
The ridged broiler pan that came with your oven is not your best friend when it comes to broiling tender fish fillets. Those ridges and drip holes are designed for cooking meat. Broil a delicate piece of fish on the pan, and chances are it will fall apart when you try to take it off
The best piece of equipment to use when you’re broiling fillets – with or without skin -- is a well seasoned flat cast-iron griddle. Position it under the broiler and heat it up for 15 minutes, until its searingly hot. When you put skin-on fillets on it, the heat from the griddle will crisp the skin, and the flat surface makes plating very simple. When you use it for skinless fillets, you get great caramelization on the bottom side.
When you’re broiling skinless fillets, like flounder, you can also use a lightly oiled baking sheet. No need to heat the sheet in advance: set the fillets on the sheet and slide them under the heat. You’ll find you have perfectly broiled fillets, and the smooth surface of the baking sheet makes sliding the fish off and onto the plate a snap.
For fillets with skin, a baking sheet will work, but it won’t get as hot as the griddle and so the skin won’t be as crisp. Oh, and those insulated cookie sheets won’t work for broiling at all – you need a heavy professional baking sheet.”
Trout Amandine
I chose this recipe to illustrate the ease of Rick’s recipes partly because trout is one of my all-time favorite foods.
Makes 2 servings
(He suggests that if you wish to double the recipe you should cook the fish in two skillets, but make the sauce in just one of them.)
2 white trout fillets, skin on
coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper
All-purpose flour
Vegetable oil (I used olive)
7 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup sliced almonds (you can buy them sliced in the supermarket)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
juice of 1/2 lemon
Season the trout on both sides with salt and white pepper. Dust the skin side lightly with flour and pat off any excess.
Heat a large skillet or sauté pan over medium high heat. When the pan is hot, pour in a slick of vegetable oil. Add the trout, floured side down, and press down on the fish with a spatula to set the skin. Add 1 tablespoon butter. Sauté until the skin is crisp and browned, about 2 minutes. Turn over and sauté for 30 seconds. Transfer to two warmed dinner plates.
Melt the remaining 6 tablespoons butter in the skillet. Add the almonds and sauté, stirring until they are lightly browned. Add the parsley. Turn off the heat and squeeze in the lemon juice. Spoon the sauce over the fish and serve immediately.
June’s note: We drank a 2006 St. Supéry Dollarhide Sauvignon Blanc with this trout. It was a spectacular pairing.
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Recipe Archive
Pasta Ee Fagiole Ee Scarola
(Soup with Beans, Bow Ties and Escarole)
I love soup any time of year, but especially in Fall and Winter. Soup is extremely versatile. Soup is a great first course for a formal dinner, or, especially hearty soups such as this one are a one-dish meal, when paired with a crisp salad and a hearty bread
makes 8 main course or 12-16 starter serving
1 large red onion, chopped
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 pounds (shelled) fresh shell (Cranberry) beans (or 1 pound dried white beans, soaked overnight)
1 1/2 pounds prosciutto end piece, chopped (bribe it from your Italian deli man!)
4 cups chicken stock (preferably homemade)
2 cups cold water
1 teaspoon rubbed sage
2 teaspoons sea salt
1/3 teaspoon red pepper flakes
16 fresh basil leaves, torn
Freshly ground pepper
2 pounds escarole, shredded
- SautE onion and garlic in olive oil until limp and translucent.
- Add everything else but the escarole to the onion mixture. Bring to the boil and simmer for 1 hour over medium heat.
- Add 2 pounds escarole, shredded. Bring back to the boil and turn the heat off.
- Just before serving, cook 1 pound of farfalle (bowties) separately. Add to hot soup.
Serve with grated Parmigiano or Pecorino cheese to sprinkle on top
Teacheris Tip: I recently learned Italians call Cranberry Beans Borlotti Beans. If you can find them dried, they will make your soup prettier than the white beans
Wine Tip: A young Barbera diAsti or a Montepulciano diAbruzzo would be an appropriate accompaniment to this delicious meal in a bowl.
City Ribs
Almost everyone loves to eat ribs, but if you live in the city, you very likely have no place to cook out-of-doors. This recipe could be made on a grill, but is really designed to be cooked indoors, started on the cooktop and finished in the oven, using a ridged grill pan and heavy-duty aluminum foil. This recipe serves 2 to 4 people, depending upon how much meat you have. I prefer "country-style" ribs because they are meatier, but you can use baby back ribs if you prefer. The marinade recipe was a gift from my friend Chemayne Valdez. I turned it into a sauce, as well!
1 pound country-style pork ribs per person
Marinade (see below)
2 tablespoons extra-thick tomato paste (imported from Italy, it comes in a tube)
1/2 cup red table wine
Marinade:
1 cup balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup low-sodium tamari sauce
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
2 tablespoons top-quality Dijon mustard
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
- Blend marinade ingredients together in a bowl or large measuring cup.
- Cut the ribs into serving-sized pieces and place in a large zip-lock freezer bag. Pour the marinade over the meat and zip the bag. Allow the meat to marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, or as long as overnight.
- Remove the meat from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before you're ready to start cooking to allow it to come to room temperature. Carefully remove the meat from the zip lock bag, reserving all the marinade in the bag. Dry the ribs on paper towels.
- Heat the oven to 400 degrees F. Pour the remaining marinade from the bag into a small saucepan. Over low heat, bring the marinade to a boil. In a small bowl, blend the tomato paste and wine. Add this mixture to the boiling marinade. Allow the mixture to simmer until reduced and fairly thick. Taste and season with salt and pepper to taste.
- Spray the grill pan well with vegetable oil. (I use a Misto.) Place the grill pan on a burner and have a large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil ready.
- Season the ribs well with salt and pepper and place them in the hot pan, "pretty side" down. Cook until nicely browned. Turn the ribs over and spoon some of the sauce liberally on the ribs. Cover the pan with the foil, shiny side in, and place in the preheated oven for 20 minutes.
- Using a mitten on the pan handle, remove the pan from the oven, and turn the ribs over. Add more sauce. Cover again and bake for 20 minutes more. Remove from oven and allow ribs to rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. BE CAREFUL! That handle is HOT!
Falafel-Crusted Salmon on a Bed of Spinach
This is a "restaurant-style" dish that is easy to make at home. It's a very popular choice for my Cooking Class Parties, because almost everyone likes salmon. Everyone also wants to be able to present an impressive and delicious meal to family and friends with as little effort as possible.
makes 6 servings
2 salmon fillets, about 1 pound each, skin removed
Dijon mustard
1 cup "Fantastic Falafel" mix
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground cumin
Extra virgin olive oil (to film the pan)
2 additional tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium sized onion, chopped
2 bags (10 ounces each) fresh spinach, stemmed, well washed and dried
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
- Cut each salmon fillet into 3 equal servings. Put a thin coat of mustard on top of each piece.
- In a small flat bowl or plate, blend falafel mix with pepper and cumin. Place both the fish and falafel plates near your cooking surface.
- Film a large non-stick skillet with the olive oil over medium-high heat. Dip the mustard side of each piece of salmon in the falafel mixture. Shake off excess and place in the hot oil, crumb-side down. Cook until almost done (and well browned) before turning the pieces over (about 4 minutes). Cook about 4 more minutes. Remove to a warm platter and keep warm.
- Add about 2 tablespoons olive oil to the skillet and sautE the onion until soft (about 4 minutes). Add the garlic and ginger and sautE briefly. Add the well-dried spinach to the pan and cook until wilted. When the spinach is almost dry, add the balsamic vinegar and toss gently to coat the spinach.
- Divide the spinach among 6 individual plates and arrange the salmon on top. Serve at once.
Caramelized Fig Tart with Raspberries
When I was a child in Chicago, I never saw nor tasted a fresh fig. Iim sure they mustive been growing in California even then, they just didnit travel very far. Nowadays I live in New York, and right now, every street-corner vendor has baskets of succulent Black Mission figs on his cart. Their season is short, so I take every opportunity I can to enjoy them. This tart is truly one of lifeis simple pleasures. Itis very easy to make. I hope you will!
makes six individual tarts or one 10-inch tart
one recipe Sweet Pastry (see Teacheris Tip section below)
1/3 cup seedless raspberry purEe or conserves, thinned with 1 tablespoon Balsamic vinegar or Raspberry liqueur
18 - 24 fresh figs, depending on their size -- I prefer the Black Mission figs, but the green ones are also delicious (Allow 4 whole figs per serving for each tart.)
1 pint fresh raspberries
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Confectioners sugar for topping
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line the tart shells with pie weights and bake completely. Cool.
2. Rinse and dry fresh figs, and cut each one in half, lengthwise. Spread a thin layer of the raspberry purEe on each shell, then arrange in a single layer atop the raspberry purEe, cut sides up. The fig halves should fill the tart shell without crowding. Sprinkle lightly with balsamic vinegar and powder thickly with sifted confectioners' sugar.
3. Preheat broiler on highest setting. Place tart(s) on a rack about 2 inches below the flame of the preheated broiler for about 5 minutes, or just until the sugar has caramelized. DON'T BURN!!! Chill. Serve scattered with fresh raspberries and clouds of sweetened whipped cream.
Teacheris Tips: 1. Only fresh figs will work for this recipe.
2. The number of figs youill need will vary with their size, and whether youire making one large or several smaller tarts.
When figs are ripe, theyire very delicate, so wash and dry them with care. Remove the stems before cutting them in half lengthwise.
French Vanilla Ice Cream
My favorite person to cook for regularly asserts that this is the best Vanilla Ice Cream in the world. Make sure you use top quality ingredients to ensure that you have the same great results.
makes about 1 1/2 quarts
1 vanilla bean
2 cups whole milk
3/4 cups sugar
4 teaspoons flour
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 extra large eggs
1 teaspoon Bourbon Madagascar vanilla extract (the vanilla I prefer for all desserts)
2 cups light cream
1. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and use the tip of a small sharp knife to scrape out the seeds. Add the bean and the seeds to the milk in the top of a double boiler. Scald the milk mixture.
2. Mix sugar, flour and salt. Add the hot milk, stirring constantly, and return to the double boiler. Stir over boiling water until thickened.
3. Beat the eggs and add a small portion of the hot mixture. Return to the remaining hot mixture and cook, stirring occasionally until the mixture coats a metal spoon. Chill thoroughly.
4. Add the vanilla extract and cream, and freeze in a hand-crank or electric freezer, following the instructions given with either.
Teacheris Tips: 1. Make the ice cream up to step 4 and refrigerate it overnight. The next day, itis a snap to add the cream and churn it to perfect consistency. Do let it iset upi in the freezer for several hours before serving so the flavor reaches its peak.
Veal Chops with CrEme Fraiche Sauce
These veal chops are a delicious way to celebrate a loved one's birthday. If you can find really thick ones, try slicing them as in Step 5 below.
makes 6 servings
3 large loin veal chops, about 1 pound each
3/4 teaspoon Spanish paprika
flour for dredging the veal chops
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup finely chopped onion
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1/2 cup Tawny Port
1 1/4 cups crEme fraEche
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Mix together the salt, pepper and paprika. Rub the chops well with this mixture, then dredge them in the flour, shaking off the excess very well.
2. In a deep, heavy sautE pan with a tight fitting lid, heat the oil and butter together over medium high heat. When the foam from the butter subsides, add the chops and sautE for about 2 minutes on each side.
3. Reduce the heat to low. Add onions and garlic, stirring well. Cover the pan and cook the chops for 15 minutes on each side.
4. Remove the chops from the pan. Place them on a large plate covered loosely with aluminum foil to keep them warm. Add the Port to the mixture remaining in the pan, and boil until the mixture is reduced to a syrup. Stir in the crEme fraEche, and boil the sauce, stirring constantly, for 1 minute, until it is thickened. Taste, and correct seasonings.
5. Now, place the veal on a cutting board. (If there are any juices remaining on the plate, stir them into the sauce.) Cut the veal on the diagonal into thin slices, discarding the bones. Divide the meat between 6 warmed dinner plates, and strain the sauce over each serving.
Scallop Mousse with Fresh Basil
This yummy mousse is the epitome of "smooth." It's easy to do a day or two ahead Try it for your next party, either as an hors d'oeuvre or a plated first course, when you want something just a little different, but really smooth and not too wild. Serve it with your favorite sparkling wine
makes 4 to 6 plated first course servings -- (or about 20 "baby" scallops for passed hors d'oeuvre, or fills one copper scallop shell for a stationary selection on a cocktail buffet)
1 E pounds scallops (may be sea, bay or cape scallops), poached and cooled
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
1 large shallot, chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1 envelope unflavored gelatin, dissolved in E cup dry French Vermouth
Ecup homemade mayonnaise made with fresh lime juice
2/3 cup crEme fraEche (or sour cream)
Eteaspoon sea salt
a few grinds of fresh white pepper
6 drops hot pepper sauce
1. In the food processor fitted with the metal blade, chop the basil fine. Remove and set aside.
2. With the motor running, drop the chives and shallot through the feed tube, and process until very finely chopped. Add mayonnaise and pulse three times to mix. Now add all the ingredients except the basil and the gelatin mixture, and pulse five or six times to incorporate well, then process until smooth.
3. Add basil and gelatin mixture, and pulse several times, to blend thoroughly.
4. Pour or spoon mixture into the prepared mold(s) you have chosen. [Use miniature Madeleine pans for the really tiny scallops that fit on crackers.]
5. Chill until firm, about 1 E hours minimum for the large mold. (The "babies" take almost no time at all!)
6. Unmold onto appropriate serving dish, and garnish with fresh basil leaves or sprigs. (I like to serve the "babies" on a Bremner wafer, on top of a small basil leaf.)
Coconut Pound Cake
makes 1 10-inch tube (or bundt) cake or 2 9x5-inch loaf cakes
1 pound unsalted butter
2 cups pure cane sugar
2 cups flour (divided in half)
6 extra large eggs
7 ounces shredded, unsweetened coconut (get it at the health-food store)
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Make sure the rack is in the center of the oven. Grease and flour a 10-inch tube pan. (I use a bundt pan.)
2. Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy.
3. Add one cup flour and beat some more.
4. Meanwhile, add the vanilla to the eggs (in a separate bowl). Then add eggs one at a time to batter, beating well after each addition.
5. Now mix coconut with the remaining one cup flour and add to batter, using a wooden spoon to incorporate. Pour into desired pan(s).
6 Bake about 45 minutes to one hour. Be sure to test with a cake tester or long toothpick to be sure it comes out clean when inserted in the center of the cake. [If it doesn't come out clean, leave it in a few minutes longer!]
The glaze:
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon pure extract (almond or vanilla--be inspired)
1. Combine sugar and water and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and add extract. Glaze is now ready.
2. When cake comes out of the oven, poke holes through cake with skewers and pour on glaze while cake is warm <> while the cake is still in the pan. Don't remove the cake from the pan until it is completely cool.
Note: This cake is best 24 hours after baking. But it generally can't make it until then, so bake two and eat one warm and hold the other until the magic 24 hours are up! (quote from Carmen Cook)
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